Just a Bowl of Cherries

Cherries make me smile. I don't know what it is. Their bright colors, their shiny coats; they're just so cheery. And when the first of the season arrive, it all rushes back. I remember sunny picnics, stuffing handfuls of the glossy fruit into my mouth 'til my cheeks burst, biting away the juicy, sweet-tart flesh only then to forcibly hurl the pit through the air, seeing how far I could make it go. (How can you not love a fruit that is celebrated with it's innards spat in contest? Though cherries aren't the only ones: watermelon, pumpkin, olive, umeboshi [pickled plum], peach, persimmon, and probably something else I'm missing, can all claim such reverence.)

And there sat the little bags of cheer, ready to be scooped up and taken home. I wanted to bake with them, something simple and light. I came this close to making clafoutis (it's been all the rage), and may still, but I really wanted cake, and for some crazy reason I wanted it without butter. I came across a recipe that was nearly perfect, it was made with butter, but melted butter at that, so it seemed olive oil would be a flawless substitution. I love olive oil cakes; light and clean with a tender crumb and that second (really, third) piece feels less shameful.

As I have learned not to experiment much with baking, I have also learned what I can play with, so in this case, I did play a bit. As for the oil, use any that suits your taste. I used extra virgin olive oil, and while the batter was strong with its flavor, it became much less apparent in the baked cake. I used 2 x 7.5 inch ceramic tart pans, but a single dish that would result in a shallow cake just the same would work fine, too. If you would prefer a cake fit for presentation out of the pan, a springform works, but you would likely have to increase the baking time. And the cake is even better the next day (more moist).

Cherry Cake
inspired by Joy of Baking

1 pound (454 grams) fresh cherries, pitted
1 ½ cups (210 grams) all purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
¾ cup granulated white sugar
½ cup olive oil (extra virgin or light)
1/3 cup milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Zest and juice of ½ lemon

Preheat oven to 400°. Oil 9 x 13 baking dish.

1. Rinse, dry, and pit all the cherries. (In the absence of a cherry pitter, use a paring knife to cut the cherries in half and pop the pit out with your thumbnail.) Scatter cherries across the bottom of your baking dish.

2. In a small bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

3. Beat the eggs and sugar until thick and lemon colored, approximately 3-5 minutes. Incorporate the oil, milk, vanilla, and lemon juice and zest. Add the flour mixture and stir just until moistened.

4. Pour the batter over the cherries in the baking dish; spread the batter evenly.

5. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until light golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.

Serve with fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.